Tree Planting & Transplanting — Planted to Thrive.
The right tree in the right spot is a 50-year gift. Our arborists help you choose, plant, and establish trees properly — and can transplant existing ones — so they actually thrive.
Free Planting Quote
Same-day assessment. No obligation, no surprise fees.
Most young trees fail from how they’re planted — not bad luck.
Wrong species, wrong spot, planted too deep, mulched into a “volcano” — these common mistakes doom young trees before they start. The right choices set a tree up for decades.
We help you pick species suited to your soil, light, and space, plant them at the correct depth with proper soil and mulching, and set up the watering and care that get them established.
Need to move an existing tree? We can transplant suitable trees with the right timing and root care to give them the best chance.
We help you with
- Choosing the right species for the spot
- Planting at the correct depth and spacing
- Soil prep, staking, and proper mulching
- Establishment watering and care plans
- Transplanting existing trees and shrubs
- Avoiding future conflicts with wires and foundations
Planting Done for the Long Run
Set up properly so your investment grows for generations.
- Species & site adviceThe right tree for your soil, light, space, and goals.
- Correct-depth plantingPlanted at the proper depth — no buried root flares.
- Soil preparationAmended and prepared planting site for strong root growth.
- Proper mulching & stakingMulched correctly (no volcanoes) and staked only if needed.
- Establishment planA simple watering and care schedule for the critical first years.
- Transplanting optionCareful relocation of suitable existing trees and shrubs.
Tree Planting: The Details Homeowners Ask For
Straight answers on timing, permits, access, and what it costs you.
- Planting season
- Spring once the frost is out of the ground, or September through late October. Both give roots time to establish before the tree has to carry a full canopy through summer.
- Planting depth
- The root flare sits at the surface, visible. Trees planted with the flare buried grow girdling roots and decline a decade later, and it is the most common planting error we find.
- Backfill
- The soil that came out of the hole. A hole filled with rich imported mix creates a pot the roots refuse to leave.
- Mulch
- A ring 8 cm deep out to the edge of the branches, pulled back a hand’s width from the trunk. Never piled against the bark.
- Watering
- A deep soak weekly through the first two growing seasons, more in a drought. Frequent light watering keeps roots at the surface where they dry out.
- Where not to plant
- Under hydro lines, within a few metres of a foundation or a service trench, or at the end of a driveway where road salt collects, unless the species tolerates it.
Choosing a tree that suits a North York lot
Start with the space above and below. A tree that reaches 20 m planted under a service line will be topped by a utility crew for the rest of its life. A large-canopy species three metres from a foundation puts roots where the soil moisture matters. Matching mature size to the spot is the single decision that determines whether the tree is an asset or a future removal.
Then match the ground. Driveway edges and street frontages take salt spray and runoff all winter, so honey locust, hackberry and ginkgo hold up where a white pine or a sugar maple will burn. Wet low spots suit river birch and swamp white oak. Compacted urban soil suits few things well, which is why we loosen a wide shallow area rather than digging one deep hole.
Native species carry more of the local food web and generally handle the climate here without help. Norway maple, which is planted across North York and self-seeds into every ravine, is the one to avoid: it casts shade nothing grows under, girdles itself with surface roots, and is a listed invasive in Ontario.
Diversity is the practical lesson from the ash. Streets that were planted with one species lost their canopy in a decade when the borer arrived. Two of the same tree in a small yard is a risk you can avoid for free by choosing something different for the second one.
The North York Tree Standard
The same proven four steps on every job.
Call or Request a Quote
Tell us about the tree. Emergencies answered 24/7.
Free On-Site Assessment
A certified arborist confirms the plan and gives a written price.
Safe, Insured Planting
Carried out by an equipped, fully insured crew.
Spotless Cleanup
Everything hauled away — your yard left clean and safe.
Planted Right, Growing Strong
A few recent North York jobs — handled safely and cleaned up completely.
A front-yard shade maple
Owners wanting a long-lived shade tree done right.
A row of privacy cedars
New cedars for a back-fence privacy screen.
Moved a young Japanese maple
A prized maple in the wrong spot for a renovation.
“They helped us pick the right shade tree for our front yard and planted it properly — correct depth, good soil, real watering advice. Two years on it’s growing like crazy.”
Planning a new tree?
Expert planting and transplanting across North York & the GTA. Free advice & quote.
Questions Homeowners Ask Us
What’s the best tree to plant in North York?
It depends on your soil, light, and space — natives like maple, oak, serviceberry, and certain conifers do well. We’ll recommend species suited to your exact spot.
When is the best time to plant?
Spring and fall are ideal for most species, giving roots time to establish before summer heat or winter. We’ll advise timing for your choice.
Can you move a tree I already have?
Often, yes — younger and smaller trees transplant best, with the right timing and root care. We’ll assess whether yours is a good candidate.
How much watering will a new tree need?
Regular deep watering through the first two to three growing seasons is critical. We give you a simple schedule.
Why do new trees sometimes die?
Usually planting too deep, poor species choice, or not enough water early on — all avoidable with proper planting and a care plan.
When is the best time to plant a tree in Toronto?
Spring once the ground thaws, or from September to late October. Fall planting gives roots two cool seasons to establish before the first summer. Midsummer planting works only with committed watering.
How deep should a new tree be planted?
With the root flare, the widening at the base of the trunk, visible at the surface. Burying the flare is the most common cause of trees that fail quietly ten years after planting. If the nursery pot has soil above the flare, brush it off before setting the depth.
How much should I water a newly planted tree?
One deep soak a week through the first two growing seasons, and twice a week in a drought or on sandy soil. Deep and infrequent draws roots downward; a daily sprinkle keeps them at the surface.
What trees should I avoid planting here?
Norway maple, which is invasive in Ontario and girdles itself with surface roots. Anything large under a hydro line. And a second copy of a tree you already have, since a single-species yard loses everything to one pest.